Thursday, March 19, 2009

Non Merci

Photo courtesy of Laurie (one of this session's volunteers)

The last two weeks have brought me to tears on many occasion. They have been 2 of the funniest weeks of my time with CVNZ so far, with a very amusing Volunteer team.

We've also had a great change within the Punakaiki project site, with the contract work being carried out to clean up our office/site and spruce it up to a suitable 'Punakaiki Coastal Restoration Site Office' standard.

So far we've seen non-native tree felling, patching up holes, roof painting, kitchen panelling, scraping and landscaping. Our team worked like ninjas this week; painting the kitchen, the outside walls of the office and tunnel building, moving firewood and cleaning down an outside area, digging in posts and erecting shade cloth to form a plant nursery, picking up and moving 260 plants destined for the project site landscaped areas, and finally planting them all! Awesome week's work in Punakaiki!

With three Brits (Andy, James & Cookie), and two de la Francaise (Laurie & Bruno) we've had quite the linguistic weeks ~ a large part of our dialect melding, with the lingua franca once again becoming French. The typical English attitudes of shouting English louder at the French to make them understand; explored and pushed aside in favour of almost comical adoption of words and phrases - “non merci” and "Oh la vache!" being our favourites.

I thought I would give this lot a chance to do something which no others have ever done on my blog; have their own say. So it is that I turn my laptop over to them now, for their chance to say whatever they like about these two weeks;

Andy
Apparently no others have ever had the chance ever to do this so I'm feeling rather privileged to be writing on the blog of Mr. Rye. Okarito so far has been rather awesome until today when the rain decided to halt work after only 30 mins of UGD (Ultimate Gorse Destruction). Aside from the rain however, the view of the mountains from the beach is superb as these snow capped peaks rise above the tree scattered foothills. Okarito is lush, for serious!

Jim-bob
These last few weeks I have learnt a lot both about myself and my surroundings, some of these including; the French like dipping toast with jam (confiture) in their coffee, I can now make gravy, once a year Hokitika is an odd place to be, don't sleep with your head (tet) on the window (fenetre) whilst travelling due to oncoming stones, Rudyard Kipling doesn't make apple pies, tuna isn't made from dolphins, my French accent isn't as great as I thought it was. Overall, a constructive week with much work being done and a lot being learnt. What more can you want? Oh revoir!

Cookie (aka Katy aka 'Do you know who I am?')
Alors.. how to write about these last 2 weeks? Well.. It's been a great opportunity to practise my franglais, much to the amusement of Bruno, Laurie and, well, everyone. Mais, ca c'est le blaireau. In no way were these weeks 'just an addition to my CV' (“Look.. I went travelling for 8 months, and did 2 weeks of conservation. Clearly I'm serious about the cause...”); they were a fantastic opportunity for me to get my teeth into something and actually do something physical for a while. If only I'd thought a bit harder about it beforehand I would have done a few more weeks. Alas, my time is running short, oh la vache. Good times were spent swapping music, initiating the rest of the group to the wonderful bagpipe filled worlds of Kathryn Tickell and Martyn Bennett (don't knock it till you've tried it) and generally laughing like an idiot for most of the day. Obviously conservation played its part too. Go team ecology! I want Sam's job. Watch your back! Till later.... OUI MERCI!

Laurie
Yes, no, yes, no, no no no, yes... My english is very bad so when I speak I'm a clown but it's not intentional unfortunately... Fortunately for Sam, Andy and Katy who laugh a lot, they are so mocking people! By the way, thanks for this four weeks very good thanks to people, food people too, nature, fauna and flora and the work was interesting (like planting trees or making box trap) in spite of the rain sometimes...
So, other people like Andy or Bruno describe very well the amazing places we saw on this blog so, I stop my text here.
Tchüss !! %)

Bruno
It has been two great weeks with conservation volunteering, not full of work all the time but that let us free time to discover the wonderful places where we've been staying. I can't wait to see again Punakaiki and its beautiful cliffs dressed with dark green native forests. Okarito also has his charm and you can't stay unmoved by the wonder of a sunset on those black sandy beaches with the huge mountains in background. I'm glad to have learned some skills like building trap boxes (me who couldn't hold a hammer properly) or planting trees, and thanks to the eagerness of the team these two weeks have seemed more holidays than anything else.
So thank you again Sam for managing our team the way you did and good luck for any of your plans, I hope CVNZ will keep on giving you happy times and good people to meet.
CVNZ c'est vachement bien.
Cheers, Bruno


Back to me then!

Writing highlights of the weeks here would be purely self-indulgent, with little meaning to others so I shan't this time. Suffice to say there have been so many small moments of gold; misunderstandings between languages, notes of music drifting across the accommodations (melodica, tin whistle, guitar & harmonica), sharing of music – from bagpipes to didgeridoo, folk to funk, Northumberland to Normandy and everything in between.

As a group, we also went to experience a truly West Coast phenomenon – the Wild Food Festival. An event which started as a fund-raiser around 10 years back, which has now grown to an annual event with ticket sales capped at 15'000 (only 3 years after 23'000 swamped the festival in Hokitika). It is mostly about the various different foods harvested from the West Coast of the South Island; weird and wonderful recipes concocted to make palatable the most bizarre of food types – venison and wild pork on one stall was joined by cooked testicles, flicking to another stall brought 'wild stag hearts' to my attention as a foodstuff, even grasshoppers, wasp larvae ice cream, worms, eel, and gorse sausages were offered. When I say 'mainly about the food', I mean the Kiwis have taken the festival into their hearts and found that the word 'Festival' is synonymous in their vocabulary with the words “Boozed” and “Fancy Dress”. Feeling that I had merely dabbled with the more savoury of foods so far (venison roll, whitebait patty and ostrich sandwich) I couldn't quite pull myself past the 'Huhu Grub' stall where gruff Coasters were chopping up rotting wood and pulling out little wriggling white grubs. Crunchy.

We were also moved to hot foot it up to Tauranga Bay in our Punakaiki week. It is a beautiful bay with a seal colony easily visible from a short walk, fortunately it also has a really good cafe where I could hide out (having visited the area about 4 or 5 times already) whilst the others viewed the seals. The sun was dropping in the sky as I went to pick up the volunteers, and what a sunset it was!

Our time in Okarito is sadly going to be cut short by an unfortunate event; on driving into the village on Monday, I was passing a ride-on mower as it turned, and the mower spat up a stone which collided with the bottom of the rear passenger window of the van, chipping the very bottom of the window. The safety glass did its job – shattering into a million pieces and holding together, protecting a slightly startled James in the back seat! The next 3 or so hours were spent on the phone notifying CVNZ, and attempting to source a new part to be fitted in Greymouth on Thursday. This sounds like an easy thing to arrange, but of course the part is non-standard, not held in stock on the West Coast, and has to be brought across from Christchurch, so it was a bit of a hassle.

Sadly at this current time we are being rained out of the work we were aiming to carry out. Yesterday we cleaned up the wharf area where the gorse was getting the better of the recreation area. The afternoon was spent combing the beach for gorse seedlings which were starting to invade the area that the banded dotterel nests. On hands and knees we pulled, grunted and strained to remove these prickly little bastards. I even 'got rage' at one point as a gorse bush I grappled with started to come out but then snapped at the critical moment, leaving me with but a thin stump to attempt to remove it with – an impossible task. I was heard to shout 'I hate gorse!' and then set about attacking it with the loppers. Cookie later confided in me 'I was going to offer some help but decided it was best to leave you, as I thought I may get shouted at'. I'm so committed.

Conversation topics have so far ranged somewhat over the 2 weeks;
The Attenboroughs, Wine, Rudyard Kipling's racist leanings and insane apple pies, Australia, 'is tuna made of dolphin?', England vs France rugby, Graphic Design, Photography, sleep talking (“help me”), famous Dad's, martial arts, university days, Scuba Diving, musical instruments, crabs and their diets, ninja pirates or pirate ninjas?, STD's (not amongst the team I should add), astronomy, amnesia, Anchorman, “Yes, no... um... no, yes. What's the question? No. Yes”, folk music, Emergency Toilet Roll, Pokemon, ecology, worldly travels, the virtues and limitations of the British Empire, food in general, The Kimberley (my rant), industrious ants, the formation and similarities of bagpipes and black pudding.

Food we've eaten: Carbonara, Red thai curry, Bangers & mash, Confit of chicken a l'orange (I cooked it, not the French peeps!), Cheesy gratin of potato veges & Ham, Beef stew, Burrito wraps, and a menagerie of other tasty morsels.

So this is what life has become – roaming the South Island with small bands of volunteers who make me laugh like an idiot. It's not all bad :)

Links;
West Coast mish-mash photo album
Punakaiki Coastal Restoration Project Blog (when I'm given the ok)

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Outrage


I only dropped into the cafe in St Kilda for a quiet coffee, some sumptuous eggs, and a read of the papers, but I ended up seething...

I read an article in THE AGE's 'Good Weekend' section, and ended up theiving it as I was so irate at the situation that I wanted to write a blog about it. The article is entitled 'Pipe Dream' and centres around the Kimberley - a huge beautiful wilderness in Western Australia.

The article is very interesting, disturbing, and whilst I favour once again the intrinsic conservationists side of the debate, I think it also has some interesting interviews with miners, aboriginal landowners and a rather scathing view of the main champion of the project - the Premier of WA; Colin Barnett. In fact, I would say he just about comes out as the devil incarnate in the article, and so he should do...

I wont go over too much of the ground the article covers - really I would prefer you all read it yourself (it really is very well written), but a few of the highlights to focus you on the premise (courtesy of Janet Hawley's article from The Age);

Thousands of species of birds, fish animals and plants thrive here; humpback whales mate and calve in its warm bays, dugongs feed, turtles lay countless eggs on beaches. It's also home to extensive Aboriginal rock art tracing 40'000 years of continuous indigenous inhabitation

The alluring, multi-billion dollar bounty at stake is the vast natural gas reserves of the Browse Basin, lying 400km offshore under that tropical sea. Major petroleum companies are now eager to develop these gas fields, and the WA Government is desperately keen to oblige with the easiest solution: bring the gas directly on shore, and take a large bite from the Kimberley's virgin coastline to establish a liquid natural gas processing precinct.


I should add that the project has a 50-70 year lifespan.

50-70 years... are you kidding me?! This beautiful, unspoilt wilderness, where no known species has ever become extinct (one of the few places in the world this can be said of) has been untouched for milennia and now one man has decided that he is bigger than all of this, bigger than nature itself, and that he shall authorise the compulsory acquisition of the land from the Aboriginal people (having just abolished their right to veto over the land development) for the development to go ahead.

Fucking outrageous.

(sorry for the language, but I think this is truly one of the most disgusting things I have ever seen or heard of in recent politics)

This almost makes me not want to move back to Australia. I am truly saddened that this attitude is still accepted in Australia, still supported by the Rudd Government (um, what was that Election promise about being focused on the environment), and still the aboriginal peoples are being treated with such disdain that the most important thing to them is simply being taken away from them.

One of my favourite and most poigniant quotes was from Albert Wigan (aboriginal landowner in the Kimberley) speaking about the 'compensation deal';
Money has never solved aboriginal problems. Money divides uus. We're prostituting ourselves selling ouur land. What keeps us strong and proud is our country and our culture. Without country, we're nothing.
Barnett, who had to step down as leader of the Liberal party in 2005 after disasterous plans to build a canal from the Kimberley to Perth (impractical & costing related). He won in 2008 and after scrapping the incumbent consultant on the Gas project, and after discussions with industry he plumped for the North Head site - where there was a Whale Nursery. This eventually saved this site, so Barnett changed the prefferred site to James Price Point; where significant cultural sites and songlines proliferate. Barnett is keen to pipe the gas onshore and build a 30km2 area processing plant, with "Dubai style" wilderness cities to house the workers.

But of course there is another option - pipe the gas to another existing plant in the Northern Territories - but that would deprive WA of the revenue. So he is putting the buck ahead of the land, the people (both Indigenous and Settlers), the environment, the good of the country (tourism would plummet in the region of course), tradition and a whole host of other things.


Disappointed in this 'human being' yet? Yup, me too.

One further quote from the article;
In a Broome fishing tackle shop, I listen to two Pilbara mine workers who were joining a Save The Kimberley protest march. "We escape up here to feel human," they explain. "There's no sense of community in the Pilbara; you just work like pigs, live like pigs in portable dongas, drinks like pigs, and the drug scene is bad. The place is f...ed. Oh mate, don't let them f... the Kimberley, too"

I say keep places like this, just like this...

Links:
Save The Kimberley action group
Save The Kimberley blog
Anti-development Petition **please take a second to sign up!**
Anti Marine Development Petition **please take a second for this too**

Monday, March 09, 2009

Chicas, Cheesecake & Cinema

A fly-by-night trip to Melbourne was not exactly what I wanted, but it was all I could wangle this time around.

This time I was lucky enough to visit Melbourne for the weekend of Elinor's birthday celebrations, whereby we invited our nearest & dearest to join us in the Espy in St Kilda for a beer or three on Saturday arvo.
Link
Seriously, it felt like a home-coming, it had really been 4 months or so since I had frequented the pathways of St Kilda, so after flying in on Friday evening, Elinor and I set off for the cafe/restaurant with which I have somewhat of a love affair. It goes by the name of Banff - I'm sure I've mentioned it before, I even wrote a review for it awhile back! Suffice to say they're the best pizzas around that I've found, and SO cheap. The lady manager even recognised us when we ducked our heads in to order - awesome! :) It was a beautiful mix of my favourite Squid pizza
and a Morrocan Lamb pizza to give us a pizza-juxtaposition, followed by a drink in The George's Bar whilst watching a jazz quartet pootle, plink and drum their way through a crescendoing piece, and then into The George Lane Bar for a Bushfire Appeal fundraiser drink.
(Photo courtesy of Breakfast Out Blog)
Saturday started with a delightfully lazy sleepy morning, moved eventually toward a Breakfast rendez-vous at The Galleon - another of my favourite eateries in St K. As ever, it was face-meltingly tasty and just so delightfully St Kilda I was in heaven! Our rendez-vous with Galleon soon turned into an amble down Acland Street to browse the books shops, curio stores and stare laconically at the cakes in Le Bon (my fav cake shop). The time was ticking by too quickly, and we pottered on to the Espy to meet up with those nearest & dearest I mentioned.

Elinor has a lot of good friends, and quite a few popped their heads in for a glass of something potent, perhaps a bite to eat, and a chuckle with Elinor. It was great to see so many friendly faces, including Ing & Doug (El's folks) who I was able to bestow upon a tipple and have a friendly chat and catch up. Very kindly to me they continue to be, always nice to see them. Various faces came and went during the increasing blur of a celebratory afternoon - even the hockey boys came out to play (thanks for coming down boys & related ladies!). It was a fantastic afternoon turned evening in the Espy, with the sun dropping down into yet another glorious St Kilda sunset. I've missed it.

There were many highlights; seeing friends and those I have come to think of as family at the front of it, especially seeing Elinor happy, smiling and at the centre of a throng of loving peeps. I must say I chuckle a lot these days, but this weekend had me with a smile on my face almost permanently, and a hearty belly-laugh expelling from my face for a very large portion of Saturday. It was tonic for the soul. Friends really are an important bunch, and I have some really good ones in Melbourne.

Sunday was a Sam & El day. As it should be.
We furthered our joint bank account spending with a trip to Fresh @ Elwood. I love this place - I reckon it might just be the bread, I'm in love with it. Perfectly poached eggs smothered in light creamy hollandaise over crispy bacon on top of a stack of griddled toast. YOM.

Popped our head into my old flat in Elwood to see Stephanie, were greeted with warmth and felt cosily back at home back on the sofa looking at the giant tv and chatting with Steph. El even mentioned that for a moment, it just felt like maybe we were back in my flat and that we could just potter back into my room where all my stuff would be + fall asleep together after a Sunday brunch. Sadly my tenancy is no more, and Steph found a Kiwi named Brett to share the rent - funny, a New Zealander called "Britt" (as they pronounce it) whereas I'm a Brit now in New Zealand...

The time continued to pass too quickly so we took in a film in the afternoon. Dean Spanley is a fantastic tale of a Dean who reverts to his previous life as a dog when he drinks a certain type of wine, opening up and telling those around him about his memories of his Master, and giving a loveable insight into the workings of a Dog's mind. I particularly liked the bit about barking at the moon. A tear jerker of a finish but with a happy twist. Elinor and I knew that it was almost time to head to the airport and get me on a plane back to NZ, and that is always a hard point of the visits... I became a little sad as always, and the customary lump in the throat welled up once more. The beautiful views from Brighton beach were a welcome interruption, as were the images of Elinor in her new found happiness in a pair of sunglasses.

Time was up, the airport was upon me, and I had to accept my fate once more - back into Jetstar's care - and away I went. Somehow 24 hours after that last embrace I'm back on the West Coast once again sans Elinor. Flights are already booked for the next long weekend in Christchurch. Until then I can only wish I were with my favourite Chica.


Photo Album Links - Oz Visit + Cragieburn travels

Thursday, March 05, 2009

Excess

Despite rejecting the latest trappings of gadgets, iPhones and Satellite TV, I have somehow got pulled back toward the old faithful.

In one word; Apple.


Dagnamit! I don't know what it is about Apple that encapsulates me, wraps me up in wonder, and then spits me out with a hole in my wallet and a smile on my face. Hrumph.

To replace this falling apart, painfully slow Toshiba (it's done me well to be fair, but just can't handle the RAW files etc of my photography, let alone more than one program at a time), my lovely parents sent me out the MacMini I was using before I left the UK. I love this freakin machine, and if you don't know what they are - check them out. Awesome piece of design & everything you could want!

I couldn't stop at that - and realising that I spend half my time away from my home and therefore desktop computer, I decided that I really needed a friend for my MacMini. Thankfully I didn't splurge on a new MacBook or anything so extravagant - I picked up a pretty fair deal on TradeMe (NZ's version of eBay) so I now have an iBook G4 to play with too! Hurrah.

Only problem is, that's a little excessive really isn't it - 3 computers all to myself. Ah well. Once my PC is sucked dry of all my files and folders that I need, I shall simply gift the Toshiba to a very nice young lady who is in need of a computer that works.


Sunday, March 01, 2009

The Croesus Track

The journey to Smoke Ho,
The smiley faces beginning,
The off(!),
The paparoa national park,
The beech & the rimu,
The uphill trudge,
The plip plop of rain,
The roar of the the river,
The cleansing of mind,
The sound of feet pounding track,
The bouncy bridges,
The rustle of wind in the trees,
The time to think,
The leaky waterproof,
The warmth of my breath,
The cobbled path,
The tall green canopy,
The dripping moss,
The jovial tramper greetings,
The fallen greats,
The posing robin,
The time alone,
The trickle of the streams
The delicate fonds,
The sub-alpine vegetation,
The gold mining history,
The feeling of achievement,
The hiss of camping stoves,
The unveiling of hip flasks,
The sharing of snacks,
The kumara over the fire,
The conservation volunteers blurb,
The easing weather,
The walk to the knob,
The views of the coast,
The light in the valley,
The windy ridge,
The bloom of the rata,
The photographs of nature,
The appreciation of beauty,
The melted marshmallows,
The banter,
The flicker of candlelight,
The trading of tales,
The promise of kiwis,
The cosiness of sleeping bags,
The howling of wind,
The incessant rain,
The eventual sleep,
The acceptance of oncoming sodenness,
The parting of like-minds,
The well-wishing,
The new waterfalls,
The track turned stream,
The downward march,
The post for the crossings,
The squelch of my shoes,
The continued downpour,
The embracement of situation,
The smiles that followed,
The thoughts of others,
The possibilities,